Home Again.

On Friday the 13th of October 2006 I returned safely to the Twin Cities. I hope to post some last photos, a couple of audio tracks and to write a final entry or two wrapping up my Peace Corps experience in Kyrgyzstan. But for now, I am going to order a pizza and watch Sunday NFL football.

signing off,

Larry

Suleyman Mountain Sunrise



Young Man training atop Mount Suleyman before a rising sun. Osh, Kyrgyzstan: Aug.13th, 2006.

Battling the Sun: August 13th, 2006--Mount Suleyman: Osh, Kyrgyzstan

Dawn of Osh: (taken August 10, 2006) People always ask me why i get up so early in the morning. This is my answer. Note: the photo of the moon below was taken just a few minutes before this one.

As the rising August sun burns from the east, the evening's cooler counterpoint seeks shelter behind Mount Suleyman.

Mount Suleyman, Osh: this monolith sits prominently at the peak of Suleyman Too (Too means mountain). I climb up here a few times each week in the early morning and read. When the sun rises the heat kicks up to about 105 degrees fahrenheit...

The Weeping Man

The man was half-naked, his bronze chest streaked with drying mud, “Ayeeeeeeeeeeeee!” he screamed, throwing his arms in the air, “I don’t want this! I don’t want it.” He collapsed in a heap, folding awkwardly upon himself like some abandoned puppet.

I watched him from my balcony, as a theatre-goer might watch a thespian. Then, the reality of it—of him—needled its way into my emotional fabric. I looked east, down the long front side of my apartment building, and saw heads emerging from windows and other beings stepping onto terraces to stare at this man wrapped in terror and pain and sadness.

His crumpled form sat below me, perhaps ten feet away and I could see his back swell and deflate under his breath.

A stillness invaded the courtyard and a silence crept out of the madness of the world and appeared to be moving toward him, hunting for him. He wailed and the guttural, inchoate sounds that came out of him seemed dredged up from some darker, primordial day.

I shuddered but continued watching.

He breathed, sucking air over his teeth and again let out that aborted, primeval noise… he drew in another breath and again returned his torment to the world…

Slowly, out of this repetition a rhythm was born and these methodic sobs crashed forth like great waves tugged from the sea by the moon.

It seemed he cried for all of us and tethered his tears to our souls through the enchanting sound of that sad mantra.

I sighed deeply and withdrew, but I will never forget the weeping man.

Lessons Learned in Kyrgyzstan

“Come with me.” He said and put his arm around my shoulder. We walked outside onto the porch and into the fresh air, then down the stairs and into the flower garden. In the distance I saw a group of children playing soccer and others completing their yard work. The grounds of the orphanage included stables, a few acres of farmland, a pig pen and dozens of caged bunnies.

“You see,” he said, “I used to get drunk every night and chase women. I lived most of my life like that. One day I asked myself, Stephan, what have you done with your life—what do you have to show for yourself?—and the answer was nothing.”

He leaned over and stuck his nose in the white blossoms of a rose and inhaled.

He raised his head and we continued strolling, “At that point in my life I already had a fairly successful business, but I realized that didn’t matter. I looked around and saw all of these children on the streets, abandoned and begging. And I said, there’s something I can do.”

Several of the children spotted Stephan outside and began shouting, “Pappa! Pappa!” A little, sandy-haired girl with wide eyes glowing above her smile sprinted into Stephan’s arms. He lifted her up and looked at me, “now I have twenty-one children that all call me pappa and everything I do, I do for them.”

I took another look around the orphanage and felt as though I was in the center of big family. Stephan knelt and set the little girl back down and looked up into my eyes, “Life should be about love.”

Veteran Aksakal (respectful term for elderly Kyrgyz men). Photo taken in Osh by Larry Tweed Jr. (aka my father).

Petraglyph on Lake Issyk Kul, Kyrgyzstan.

Day trip to Kurshab in June. Dan and Vanessa showed us a great time!

Kids at the orphanage on Lake Issyk Kul. They were great!

These orphaned children had a blast!

Glenn & Linda Brown (AKA "The Buddhists") at Lake Issyk Kul.

Glenn Brown and kids work with puppets behind the scenes. Light cast from a lamp behind them creates the effects you see in the photo below.

Shadow Puppets at an orphanage on Lake Issyk Kul. The story is about a grandfather who grows a giant turnip but can't pull it from the ground. It takes his whole family to free the stubborn turnip and a dog, cat and mouse help out too.

Notice the cuts in the puppets which allows lights to shine through when they cast shadows on the sheet.

Dima loved helping out and asked me when I would be back. I told him I didn't know.

New Technology at our Center!

A couple of weeks ago we purchased our Television, Satellite dish, DVD player and few other odds and ends for the Center for American Studies. Now students have access to 3 english language news stations (BBC, EuroNews and CNNi) to improve their listening comprehension, pronunciation, vocabulary and knowledge of world events. The news channels are turned on (according to our posted schedule) 2 hours each day and we have two movie clubs as well.

I'll have to post some new photos of our center soon. Gotta run!

Larry

FIRST ANNUAL OSH STATE UNIVERSITY FILM FESTIVAL!!!

Please see the advertisement below regarding the First Annual Osh State University Film Festival. Entries will be accepted from around the world.

CALL FOR ENTRIES
FIRST ANNUAL
OSH STATE UNIVERSITY
FILM FESTIVAL
OSH, KYRGYZSTAN
SEPTEMBER 5TH AND 6TH 2006


(Please include the following information along with your entry)
Title:
Date Completed:
Director Producer Name/Organization (if any):
Address:
City:
State:
Zip:

DVD Format Only (Sorry Compatibility Issues)

Synopsis:


Running time:

History : Festivals, TV, awards, etc. (will be used for programming notes)

(By submitting your film, you agree to the following)
LEGAL STUFF: I understand that submission of my work authorizes the Osh State Film Fest to use the work for exhibition, education and/or publicity purposes related to the festival; that the Festival will handle DVDs with a maximum of care but cannot be held liable for any damage or loss during shipping, preview, or screening; and that the Festival is also not responsible for any claim involving copyright, trademark, credits, or royalty infringement related to the work. Work will not be returned !! But it will become part of a really cool permanent collection on Indie Film in Kyrgyzstan (that will be used for educational purposes only).


Signature_________________________________________________________

Send Entries (and a copy of this completed form) to:
Glenn Brown
Osh State University
Faculty of World Languages
250 Kurmanjan-Datka St.
Kyrgyzstan, Osh
714000

***BECAUSE OF SHIPPING COSTS FROM THE U.S. WE WILL WAIVE ALL ENTRY FEES***

My Dad (wearing Uzbek Doppi), Tolkun and me in my apartment in Osh.

My friend (Zahid's) little sister in their tomato fields.

Portal into my world: View from a Yak-40.

The tiny Russian Yak-40 jet that I fly in each time I go to Bishkek. The plane ride takes 50 minutes; by car it's 12-14 hours.

Solena, Larry III, Martin, Larry Jr. and Eileen. Martin worked at the place we stayed in Goa and made wonderful suggestions all week long regarding restaurants and sight-seeing so we treated him to dinner one of our final evenings in Goa. Good times.

Eileen, Dad, Solena in India

Exploring Infinite...Agra, India. An Indian woman walks the grounds surrounding the Taj Mahal.

Benaulim's Royal Goan Beach Club. We had 7 relaxing days at this wonderful resort.

Old Goa. Dog Days for Tourism...

Goa, India. Fisherman bringing vessel ashore after an early morning venture in the Arabian Sea.

I was watching these Goan fisherman haul their boat in untill they told me to stop looking and start helping. It took us about 20 minutes to move this boat about 50 yards. Note the wooden planks under the hull are greased every few minutes to reduce friction and pull the boats over the sands

If I were going to create a mocumentary on Old Goa, India, I would call it Spinal Sap.

Solena Mae Vogel (aka my girlfriend) taking in the eye candy that is The Taj.

In Lay and relief around Taj exterior

In Lay work of semi-precious stones around the exterior of the Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal framed in darkness by the main gate

The Taj Mahal

Going to Goa

April, 27th: Just a brief update: I will be out of the country from the 28th of April until the 11th of May. I will be meeting my Dad and Eileen in Moscow and then going down to Goa where we will join Solena for a week of rest and relaxation on the breezy Arabian Sea shore.

Be back soon...

Enjoy Life.

Larry Tweed

Jonathon Codell and Larry Tweed standing on top of the world.

Chess in the park. Osh, Kyrgyzstan: April 16, 2006

April 16: Easter Sunday. Check please! These guys are too good!

Mary & Larry Forever! Me and Liz Cullen's mom on Easter Sunday. Liz Cullen and Rob Bailey's moms came together (along with Kathleen--Liz's sister). We had a great evening filled with laughter.

Greg and Ugulay--cute couple

From Such Darkness We Are Born: Or, Why God Believes in Atheists.

My world was dark until 30 seconds ago when the velveteen voice of a Muazzin—one who calls Muslims to prayer—drifted into my dreams. I am neither a Muslim nor a Christian. I am nothing but a man, but I find an affinity for those who search for Love, Wisdom and Morality. The Muazzin’s melodic voice, amplified by bull-horn speakers fastened atop a stuccoed minaret, descends upon this city reminding me that devotion is manifest through both words and actions and that our love should be repeated many times each day, every day…

ALLAHU…AKBAR…the long drawn syllables of these two words pour over space and time and suffuse the atmosphere with unassailable beauty. Muazzins from other mosques around the city awaken and a musical round of harmonic devotion begins. I am neither a Muslim nor a Christian. I am nothing but a man, but I love the call to prayer…

The last wails from a distant mosque drift and fuse with the clamor of the waking world. The eastern horizon’s hold on night has come loose like the slow uncapping of a plastic egg. I set aside my dreams and lie upon the faded pillows of my couch, folding my arms behind my head to improve the view outside my window. A morning dove warbles and preens on a bending branch just beyond my balcony. Below, a dog knocks over a water pale, woofs and scutters off. I rise and stretch and yawn like a lazy lion.

Before long, the white enameled kettle on the grease splattered two burner stove is boiling and steaming. I turn off the gas and spoon two heaps of Dunn Brothers’ dark roasted Sumatran grounds into my plastic coffee press. I lift the kettle off the stove, tip the spout and watch a thick stream of hot clear water pour over the grounds, extracting their dark essence from within. I place the lid and screen over the press, leave the coffee steeping and go back into my studio to gather the dishes I scattered about the night before. Wedging cups and bowls, pans and utensils between curling clenched fingers, I walk gingerly back to the kitchen and deposit the flea-market of dishes into my sink. The rich aroma of coffee has already filled the air around the room. I take the ball of the press and force the rod and filter down, through the water, to the cylinder’s inner base. The liquid inside turns completely opaque.

A few minutes later I’m standing on my balcony sipping my Sumatran. Beyond the courtyard’s scallop-roofed shanties a perfect nickel-sized sun shines listlessly through the fog that has wrapped the world in a blurry gauze. I stand on my balcony and sip my steaming coffee. Shadows hang in the morning mist—dark apparitions trapped in the vapors of a rainy, ink-washed night. Even from up here, I smell the earth and think about my mother. Spring is her season. I remember watching her once while she was planting. She spread her fingers and sank them long up to their webs and balled a palm-full of earth like an ice cream scoop and raised it to her nose. She closed her eyes and inhaled the decaying, musty loam…and then she smiled knowingly.

From such darkness we are born.

Remembering Days of Old: Osh, Kyrgyzstan

Osh, Kyrgyzstan: March 24, 2006

Nooruz Morning: March 21st, 2006: Soviet Silhouette. Largest statue of Lenin in Kyrgyzstan.

March 21st, 2006: Nooruz (Central Asian/Muslim/Persian New Year). Swinging Fun in the Park.

Dancing Widows: Nooruz Holiday

Followers

Search This Blog